In an effort to leave Palma and explore the island of Mallorca, we rode the “touristic train”—essentially a 100+ year-old, refurbished wooden string of boxcars—through the mountains to the town of Soller. From Soller, we hiked an additional easy 3km along roads and a short switch-backing trail to Port de Soller. While the port is clogged with tourist restaurants and bars for year-round Germans and Irish visitors, the hiking trails near the port are serenely removed from the bustle. We decided to come back the next weekend to camp. We hiked in with our backpacks about a half mile up the trail that branches off from the western lighthouse (a further 2km walk from the port) and set up camp. We didn’t see a single person until morning, and with the weather growing colder, less and less hikers pass through.
Soller is a doable day trip from Palma, but with the extensive, unnamed trail network, you could easily spend a few days hiking up and down the mountains. Trails are typically well marked with wooden signposts and red lettering/arrows. If you don’t want to camp or sleep for cheap in Mallorca, check out one of its Refugis (modest guest houses with cheap accommodation): http://www.conselldemallorca.
For 10 euros one-way, the train takes you through farm land, almond orchards and olive vineyards, and up the backside of the mountains to the city. It runs from Placa Espana in Palma a few times per day and schedules vary according to fiestas and weekends. It leaves from the wrought iron gate to the left of the main train station. You won’t see the same views if you take the 35 minute bus from Palma, so taking the train (at least one way) is worth it. The train stops in the center of Soller, and the Port de Soller itself is an additional 3km walk/hike, well marked by wooden signs. Regular return buses run from Soller to Palma and cost 2.50 euro.